The Phillips House and Salem Massachusetts

When you look at the beautiful Federalist styled Phillips house, it is hard to imagine that it began its life at 34 Chestnut Street in Salem with a mere four rooms. The house was originally built in 1800 by Elizabeth Derby and her husband Capt. Nathaniel West as an elegant country house in South Danvers, Massachusetts. Elizabeth was the daughter of one of Salem's wealthiest China Trade merchants. The property was retained by Elizabeth after a bitter divorce in 1806. Years later after the deaths of his wife and daughter, Capt. West inherited one-third of the property. At this time he cut four rooms from the original house and had them moved during the winter by an ox drawn sled to the present location in Salem. Capt. West then added the third floor and the additions that make up the present house. In 1911, the house was purchased by Stephen and Ann Phillips. They added much of the present day collection of Federalist furniture, Chinese porcelain, maritime portraits and Hawaiian artifacts. The carriage house contains several antique cars. A visit to this house gives you some insight into their lifestyle and the sumptuous lifestyle on historic Chestnut Street.

Chestnut Street, lined with a fine collection of Federalist style mansions built between 1800 and 1820, is evidence of the enormous wealth the China trade brought to Salem. It is part of Salem's McIntyre historic district and is worth a stroll to view these beautiful private homes. Samuel McIntyre (1757-1811), a resident of Salem and an architect built some of the finest examples of American Federalist architecture in America. Hamilton Hall on Chestnut Street is one example.

Salem's influence on the witchcraft trials of the 1600's and its history as a leading maritime power in the 1700's present the visitor with many interesting museums. Among them are: the Witch House, the actual home of a witch trials judge; the Witch Museum highlights the witchcraft hysteria; the Peabody Essex Museum focuses on the maritime and China trade history; the Salem Maritime National Site part of the National Park Service shows Salem's seafaring history. Salem was Nathanial Hawthorne's inspiration for his famous books The Scarlet Letter and The House of Seven Gables. You can actually visit the House of Seven Gables and Nathanial Hawthorne's birthplace. For the children, there is the "Friendship" a full sized replica of a 1797 East India merchant ship and "Fame" a replica of an 1812 privateer schooner located in the wharf area. ("Fame was built in 2002 by H.A. Burnham Boat Builders in Essex, Massachusetts, another interesting pace to visit. See my article; Essex Surprise). The Salem trolley shuttle service, a good way to get around, includes stops at 12 major sites and attractions. There are a number of waterfront restaurants that provide a pleasant place to eat.

Salem is a convenient thirty minute drive or train ride or a one hour bus ride from Boston. If driving, take Rout 128 north to exit 25A to Route 114 to Salem. Once in Salem, follow signs to the Salem Visitor Center, Museum and Historic Sites and Downtown Parking.